Weekend trip to Berlin
Berlin, the capital and largest city of Germany, is a world city that is a leader in culture, politics, media and science. It is interesting to note though that Berlin is relatively young when compared to other major European cities; it was first documented in the 13th century, but that is still much more recent when contrasted against London, Rome and Paris all of which are almost or more than 2000 years old. But, it is fair to say that what Berlin has seen and experienced in its history challenges anything that these places have to offer despite the fact that they have many more centuries, dynasties and events to choose from. In modern times, Berlin has emerged as an economic and technological powerhouse as some of its western European counterparts struggle with internal political turmoil. It is also home to some of the world’s best entertainment and concert venues and seems ready to continue to be the face of the European Union.
I must start my Berlin journey by, funnily enough, chronicling the first meal I had. The neighborhood my AirBnb was in was a predominantly Turkish and Syrian enclave, and so the streets were lined with kebab and baklava joints. This was fantastic news to me as Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine is my favorite, so I ventured to Irmen Grill to try one of their famous kebab dishes. And it was absolutely fantastic, easily the best Turkish food I’ve ever had! I think what is also cool about this story is it reflects the growing diversity of Berlin and how the city is embracing immigration while other superpower countries around the world are adopting isolationism.
My first venture into the city was into Alexanderplatz, which is a major commercial and transport hub in the central Mitte district. The square has many famous public attractions including the Fernsehturm (TV Tower), the Rotes Rathaus (Red City Hall) and much more. My personal favorite spots/attractions of this area were the St. Nicholas Church and the Berlin Domed Cathedral. The St. Nicholas Church is the oldest church in Berlin and therefore one of its oldest buildings. Originally a Roman Catholic church, it became a Lutheran one after the Protestant Reformation. The architecture and design of the building was brilliant, which is why I say it is one of the best things I saw in this neighborhood. Of course, the inside was magnificent as well, but unfortunately, some of the original relics and artifacts have been destroyed or lost over time due to the many ways and violence that Berlin has endured. The Berlin Dome Cathedral was not too far away from St. Nicholas, yet it was equally, if not more crowded. This cathedral was just inspiring in every way imaginable; I must admit that it had no flaws whatsoever, inside or outside. With its massive church organs and well-preserved crypt, this cathedral seems to be the only one, so far, that can challenge Westminster Cathedral here in London in terms of grandness and beauty that I have seen. And I can’t even use the 200-foot tower that Westminster Cathedral has as a superior quality because visitors at this venue are allowed to climb to the top as well for breathtaking views of the city. These 2 places are must-see’s when visiting Berlin. Also close to the Alexanderplatz area is Gendarmenmarkt, although this is a bit of misnomer. While there is a Christmas-time market, this area is actually a historical square with 2 domed cathedrals facing each other and the Berlin concert house in between. It was beautiful to see in night as all 3 buildings were lighted up.
My next day were almost exclusively centered on the history of the city during World War II. This is really where the true character of the city lies in my opinion and why Berlin has become such a hot-spot tourist destination. The city realizes and recognizes the horrible tragedies that the Nazi government participated in during the war and subsequently the pro-communist government in East Germany/East Berlin, but instead of hiding away from it as they easily could, they have decided to confront it head-on with the appropriate response: by honoring the memories of all those who were murdered by the horrific “racial cleansing” policies of the Third Reich. This includes countless memorials to the Roma/Gypsies, homosexuals, Soviet POW’s and of course, the six million Jewish people who were killed as part of the holocaust. Even though I have no personal connection to any of these groups, the memorials were so simple that it left a somberness on everyone who visited. I am also happy that two of the most iconic Berlin attractions, the Brandenburg Gate and Reichstag building, are right next to these memorials and help further serve the reminder that we will never forget the atrocities committed during the war and the world today will continue to fight against fascism and racial ideologies. And history lessons aside, the two edifices are beautifully designed with their Greek-inspired columns and exquisitely detailed friezes. Another major spot to see in this area of the city is the Victory Column with a golden statue of Nike (Greek goddess for victory) , on top right down the street from where the Gate lies. While the column was originally planned to commemorate the Prussian victory in the Danish-Prussian war, by the time it had been inaugurated, Prussia had defeated France and Austria in 2 other separate wars, thus giving it a new purpose. A cool feature for visitors is they can climb the column up to the observation deck and see almost all of Berlin from a street level down to the Brandenburg Gate and Alexanderplatz.
My final day was spent focused on the Cold War history of the city and of course, the Berlin Wall. I first started with Checkpoint Charlie, which was the name given by Western Allies to the best known Wall crossing point. Now a major tourist attraction, the point only retains a few of some of the original parts of the border security system that used to exist there. Around the point are of course a few museums and exhibitions detailing some of the crises that have occurred at the crossing as well as some infamous escape attempts, and serve as a reminder to all the brutal tactics the East German government implemented to restrict emigration movement to West Berlin. Right after I went to the East Side Gallery, which is probably the most famous area remaining of the wall itself. What’s very interesting about the ESG is that the Germs have decided to leave it alone and leave the dozens of popular murals and graffiti that now line the wall’s exteriors. What was even more poignant to me was how different Berlin looked and felt on the other side of where the full wall would have been. To a degree, it feels like you are stepping back in time due to the lack of advanced technology and plethora of vintage cars. It was actually quite riveting to see this contrast between East and West Berlin before my eyes, despite the fact that the wall has been gone for almost 30 years now. Next to the east side gallery is a museum just dedicated to the wall and the tumultuous history that engulfed it, but also the jubilation and explosion of happiness that was felt by the rest of the world when it was finally broken down.
In between my city exploring, I was able to eat and drink at some very cool bars and restaurants. Like with the Turkish place I mentioned in the beginning, many of the best places I went to were again in the residential neighborhood where my AirBnb was in and not the city center. It was fun to interact with the locals and strengthen the international relations between our 2 great nations who are now tied together in almost every way imaginable.
Overall, Berlin was a great city to visit for me because of the incredible history that I had only been able to experience through books, TV shows and films. I can see, however, why the city may not be easy for tourists to digest, because it is not scenically beautiful like a Amsterdam or Barcelona. But, I can say without a doubt that Berliners are proud of the direction their city, and country, is moving in. They seem to be ready to stand up to any international developments and are committed to the global initiative of securing freedom and peace, because of the painful history their ancestors had to endure. As JFK said, “as a free man, I am proud to say: Ich bin ein Berliner.”
One of my favorite murals from the East Side Gallery
Granite blocks as part of memorial honoring Jews who were murdered during the Holocaust
