Heat Stress on Plants

While part of Maryland got some rain this week, the past two weeks have been hot and dry so that you might see symptoms of heat stress on plants. 

Heat stress occurs when plants are exposed to enormous amounts of sunlight and heat for an extended period of time. The ideal range for most crops is between 68 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (20 and 30°C). Temperatures outside this range, whether in the air or the soil, during the day or the night, are harmful to plants. The term “heat stress” often refers to a period in which plants are subjected to high temperatures long enough to alter their ability to function or grow normally.  

Heat stress disrupts various plant processes, such as inhibiting the growth and development of plant tissue, reducing the photosynthesis rate and nutrient uptake, reducing pollen production, causing flower and fruit drop, and causing sunscald on fruit.  Shallowly rooted and young plants will be the most impacted by heat and drought. 

Common visual signs of heat injury in plants include the following: leaf rolling and cupping, leaf drop, scalding and scorching of leaves and stems, rapid leaf death, reduction in growth, and lower yields. Wilting is the primary sign of water loss, which can lead to heat damage.

Drought and heat stress on green bean plants.
Photo by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org

High temperatures can also cause increased sunburn and other developmental disorders in fruits and vegetables. High nighttime temperatures decrease pollen production, reducing fruit sets and smaller fruit. Flower abortion can happen at temperatures ranging from 75° F to 95° F, depending on the crop.

Some vining vegetables in the cucurbit family (pumpkins, squash, melons, cucumbers, and the like) will develop more male flowers than female flowers in high temperatures (over 90° F during the day and 70° F at night).

REDUCING PLANT HEAT STRESS

  • A great way to reduce heat stress on plants is by meeting their water need. Plants keep cool through the evaporation of water from their leaves. If a plant lacks water, it will close the pores in its leaves (stomates), preventing evaporation to avoid wilting. When stomates close, the plant can no longer keep itself cool and leaves heat up, causing stress. Morning watering is often prescribed in times of high heat.

  • Using overhead watering, sprinkling, and misting can provide humidity, which we typically avoid to decrease plant disease; however, in prolonged high temperatures, the benefit of a humid environment probably outweighs the risk of plant disease.
  • By adding compost to your soil, you can increase its organic matter and, in turn, its water-holding capacity.

  • Mulches can also help reduce heat stress by increasing the reflection and dissipation of radiative heat. Reflective mulches like straw and wood chips can reduce surface radiation and conserve moisture.   Black plastic mulch is excellent for heating the soil in the spring to allow for early plant growth. However, its surface temperature can exceed 130°F on a hot sunny day, resulting in injury or desiccation of most plant parts (root, stem, leaves, and fruits) in direct contact with the mulch.  White or metalized plastic can be used for summer crops that are more at risk of heat damage. However, these plastic mules tend to be more costly.  An alternative to white and metallic mulches could be to make a foliar application of kaolin clay. The white coating of kaolin clay would serve as a reflective layer on the black mulch and plant canopy to minimize temperature changes.  A study conducted at the Eastern Shore Agricultural Research and Extension Center in Painter, Virginia, found that 20 to 40 lb/A of kaolin clay could maintain 10⁰F cooler soil temperatures compared to black plastic.

  • Shade cloth has been shown to significantly benefit heat-sensitive crops if applied correctly by reducing the soil and air temperatures around them. Shade cloth can be placed over crops, using stakes or hoops as support; it can be particularly beneficial to sun-sensitive crops such as peppers and tomatoes. Research at UDel by Dr. Emmalea Ernest found that a 30% shade cloth provides adequate cooling without blocking too much light for most vegetables.

  • Avoid applying fertilizers and pesticides when temperatures are consistently above 80°F, as they can burn crops. Check the product’s label for specifics before applying. 

Superficial Scald in Apples: Strategies and Solutions

By Agustina Salas (Candidate for B.S. in Biology Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile) & Macarena Farcuh, Ph.D., UMD

What is superficial scald in apple fruits and what causes it?

Physiological disorders correspond to abnormalities that can occur in any of the apple tissues, and can result in loss of quality, marketability, and profitability, leading to increased loss and wastage of apples. These disorders are caused by abiotic factors such as genotype/genetic background, maturity at harvest, orchard/preharvest factors, seasonal variations, and postharvest storage conditions. It is important to mention that pathogens or mechanical damage do not lead to physiological disorders.

In particular, the physiological disorder of superficial scald in apples is the result of a chilling injury. Chilling injuries occur during cold storage at temperatures below the optimum range. During apple cold storage fruits can accumulate a-farnesene, a volatile compound present in the fruits’ wax layer. This compound can cause superficial scald when it oxidizes with atmospheric oxygen. Therefore, superficial scald generally develops during cold storage (more than 3 months in storage) but it is increased 3-7 days after taking the fruit out of cold storage.

Granny Smith apples with superficial scald on their skin.
Fig 1. Apples (Granny Smith) affected with superficial scald on their skin. Photo: Fresh Quarterly issue 9 June 2020.

Superficial scald is only restricted to the skin of the apples and usually on the shaded side. The symptoms appear as brown patches on the skin of the apple, which are diffuse (no defined edges between affected and unaffected skin) irregular, and light brown to dark brown to black in color. Superficial scald can also be accompanied by the development of a rough texture of the fruit.

Continue reading Superficial Scald in Apples: Strategies and Solutions

Tomato and Blossom End Rot

By Jerry Brust, IPM Vegetable Specialist, University of Maryland

This is just a reminder with the usual summer weather we have had lately with stretches of very high temperatures and the occasional very heavy down pour we have had over the last few weeks blossom end rot can become a real problem in tomatoes. Sunny days will suck water through a plant quickly and the downpours will disrupt calcium movement through the plant. The key is to try and maintain consistent soil moisture while the fruit is developing. Easier said than done I know, but soil moisture levels need to be monitored as best as they can. When you see something like figure 1, with all the tomatoes on a cluster with blossom end rot you know the soil moisture fluctuated greatly over a fairly long period of time. Applying some foliar calcium sprays may help, but the applications can’t overcome poor soil moisture management.

Cluster of green tomatoes with blossom end rot ( browning at the base).
Fig. 1 All the tomatoes on this one cluster have blossom end rot—indicating poor soil moisture management. Photo By J. Brust. 

Blossom End Rot Common so Far this Season.

Blossom End Rot Common so Far this Season.

By Jerry Brust, UME

This summer has been unusual as it has been about normal for temperatures if not a little cooler, but we have had greatly varying amounts of rainfall over the last month. Some areas have remained dry with storms just missing farms while others have been hit with some heavy rains. This can make watering vegetables challenging to avoid problems such as blossom end rot, which is caused by a calcium deficit in the developing fruit.

Figure 1. Fig 1. Several different vegetables with blossom end rot.

Calcium (Ca) moves to the plant via mass flow, i.e., where dissolved minerals like calcium move to the root in soil water that is flowing towards the roots. As it passes through the plant Ca is deposited in tiny amounts into the fruit. If anything slows or interrupts this stream the tiny amount of Ca needed at that moment is not deposited and the area furthest from the top of the fruit suffers—resulting in blossom end rot (BER). I have seen more BER this year on a large number of different vegetables than I have in the past several years (fig 1).

Figure two shows how precise and constant the Ca flow in a plant has to be to supply just the right amount of Ca at the right time. The large fruit on this particular plant developed before there was a Ca interruption, but the fruit a little younger suffered a Ca interruption, with the smallest (youngest) fruit suffering the greatest Ca interruption. At the time it was taken tissue analysis from this same plant showed that calcium was in the moderate range when the blossom end rot took place, demonstrating the importance of irrigation and water supply to reduce blossom end rot. Not much you can do about no rains or heavy rains, except try to maintain as even a water supply to your vegetables as is possible and remove any fruit from the plant you find that has blossom end rot.

Fig. 2 Older larger fruit received enough Ca, but younger (smaller) fruit did not so they are showing signs of blossom end rot.